Saturday, August 18, 2007

Well, it's Certainly What I Look for in a Good Pair of Panties!

Seam Binding, 1974, found in my stash.
I certainly wouldn't want to accidentally dye my butt-cheeks. Although, it might be a good accompaniment to a thong clip.

Disappointments and Mistakes!

Well, I finished hand stitching the bodice lining on the bodice of the strawberry dress...and when I tried it on, the bodice didn't hang correctly. Turns out that I stitched the bottom edge of the bodice down too low, making the lining hang taut, while the shell puckers. So now I have to remove all those hand stitches and re-pin the lining while wearing it. It's only a couple of (hundred) stitches....*SOB*.

WAAAAAHHHH!!

Also, instead of a lapped zipper at the back I installed a centered zipper. I use this method pretty much every time I install a zipper because it's so much easier. Well, while removing the basting stitches I tore the fabric with my seam ripper *double SOB* so I had to darn it. It's not really noticeable but it still bugs the ever-lovin' sh*t outta me.

After those two rather egregious mistakes I was ready to fling the dress into the trash...but I am going to try to salvage it. None of the mistakes or anything that are going to be particularly noticeable in the end, but to me it's a big deal!

The Times They are a-Changing (and in some cases, thank God!)

I really love dresses and fashion with a retro aesthetic. There seems to be something seriously wrong with a lot of today's mainstream fashion. Most young woman are content to wear anything that shows a lot of skin or is so tight that it shows every bulge or ripple of cellulite. 40-50 years ago it was all about class and line and sophistication. Sexy was a manner of being, an attitude of confidence...instead of how naked you can get away with being in public. I mean, jeezus, a thong clip is an actual item. You can stick some "jewelry" on the back of your underwear to accessorize the bit that pokes out the back of your low-waisted pants. Haute couture plumber's crack...cuh-lah-say!

I have a love affair with fashion from the 30's-60's. Dresses caressed the curves instead of obscuring or choking them. A dress with a cinched waist and a flared skirt is flattering to nearly every body type. For the most part it seems a majority of fashions from way back when were beautiful. Coming closer to today...lots of hits and misses. I think the 70's is where it starts to head downhill. Granted, each decade has offered up some classic shapes that will always be flattering, but after that time it seems like there were mere misses than hits.

I was browsing eBay for patterns and came across this pattern....and I think it's great proof that retro doesn't always mean good-lookin'! Also, designer designed doesn't mean good-lookin' either. It's Ralph Lauren, peoples! I love the poses on the models, especially blondie there in the middle. It's Little Bordello on the Prairie! I think that the brunette there is her prim, upright sister. Falling on hard times, they decide to take up employment at Stevie Nick's (in the green skirt) little whorehouse in the Midwest. Blondie, being rather adventurous and lusty, takes to the job right away, while here sister is having major reservations. She twists her hair into a severe bun and Modest Makeovers her dress with the bow and school-marm flats.


Friday, August 17, 2007

Details and Heirlooms

As I mentioned in my previous post, lately I've been trying to slow down and pay attention to small details in my sewing. I tend to rush through my sewing, wanting to get to the end result and then being unhappy with what I've made because I was going to fast. On several occasions I've decided I need a new bag or skirt two days before or sometimes the day of some particular event and making something of "Forever 21" quality (cute if you don't look too close and liable to fall apart upon first washing or sometimes first wearing).

I am currently working on my 3rd dress, and I've decided to really try to make something of quality, that can be passed down to my daughter and granddaughters (or sons and grandsons, if they lean that way...I can be open-minded). I envision a dress that will be folded up in tissue and placed in a gorgeous box. I want to make garments that can still be worn and cherished later on down the line. For me, that means pouring over every little detail, focusing on quality construction in the seams and choosing classic patterns. It really helps that I have a somewhat retro aesthetic when it comes to the line of a dress - there are certain shapes that I think will be wearable, flattering and beautiful for a long time to come.

Right now, I am sewing up McCall's 4826 out of what I think is a cotton/linen blend in a really cute strawberry print and lined with a white on white polka dot. (I am living in Japan and buying my fabric here...since I don't read Japanese and speak only a tiny bit, I am just guessing on the material...). It's a halter bodice with a gathered a-line skirt.


I'm really trying to make this something that will last repeated wearings and stand the test of time, so I am going all out with the seam finishes. I'm even doing the slip stitching it calls for, even though it's a pain in the butt. In the past I would have either fused this or skipped it all together. No body's gonna see it, right?

This is definitely slowing down my sewing time, but I feel good about it. I am thinking of covering that seam with some hem tape, but I can't stand the thought of all that hand-sewing getting covered up. The waistline is gathered, as is the bodice at the bottom in liu of breast darts for shaping...and that was a fun task. I had thread everywhere!

I'm about 75% finished with the dress. The front top contrast band will get a bow added to the center, I need to install the zipper, finish slip-stitching and hem the dress. It's a little long, so I may end up taking it up a couple of inches at the bottom. I can't wait to wear it. Instead of being cutesy, I think that the fabric print and colors make it casually elegant.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Sew Here We Go

(Get used to the sewing puns...they're gonna come fast and furious.)

Welcome to my sewing blog. I plan to document the process of my sewing projects here, and hope that someone out there finds it interesting and or helpful. I've been sewing for a very short time, but I am learning lots and loving the process. I started off very simply only a couple of months ago, sewing some skirts with the help of this book, which my lovely husband gave me for my birthday:

Lots of people have praised this book and justly so. It's clearly written and easily understandable. I am usually hopeless with written direction (well, directions in general, but that's a post for my personal blog) but the writing style in this book seemed custom made for me. The pictures and diagrams are also easy understand, especially for a sewing novice. Having no prior sewing skills I was able to turn out several skirts in different styles, including an A-line, a half-circle and a full-circle.

The projects in the book weren't really my style (I'm not really into palm trees or cowboy prints) but they were easily adaptable to more suit my taste. Most importantly, making the skirts allowed me to learn how to do several techniques that have applied to other projects.

In the past, I have attempted to teach my self to sew only to fail miserably. I think my problem was that I was too busy worrying about the end product that I didn't slow down to learn how to do certain techniques properly. I wanted the forest, but couldn't be bothered with the trees. This time I've been trying to take my time with understanding the directions before starting and paying attention to all the little details like staystitching and edgestitching and finishing seams, and I can really tell it's making a big difference (ie: I actually end up with a garment I can wear, and not just a really fancy rag for the dishes).